Late-morning fog crept through Santa Cruz Harbor as Hans Haveman, co-owner of H&H Fresh Fish Co., explained the differences between three cuts of Pacific bluefin tuna resting in front of him on a stainless steel table: lean, ruby-colored loin, or akimi; fatty chutoro, with marbling reminiscent of kobe beef; and the otoro tuna belly, covered in a milky fat cap.  

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