Beaufort native Brett Everett races across the glassy surface of the Morgan River in a 22-foot boat on a muggy 71-degree morning, using the Lowcountry waterway to drive deep into the salt marshes. But Everett and his crew, William Beveride and “Lucky” Alewine, aren’t out on the river for a pleasure cruise.

For the next several hours, they will sweat and grunt as they strain to pull dozens of metal cages from the water hoping they will be filled with Atlantic blue crab. Known for their sweet flavor and brilliant blue claws, the blue crab is a Lowcountry treasure that’s in high demand up and down the East Coast. If only their demeanor was as pleasant as its flaky white meat after being steamed and dipped in butter.

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